Winegrowers declare war on genetically modified grapes By GREGORY FLANDERS Associated Press, July 9, 2004 http://www.santafenewmexican.com/artsfeatures/1672.html PARIS - Many French vintners are up in arms about what they fear is another threat to their centuries-old winegrowing traditions - genetically modified grapes. Earth and Wine of the World, an association that includes nearly 400 French winegrowers, is worried about a government research project to tinker with grape genes. It's a serious concern in a land where the average person over 14 drinks a quarter-bottle of wine a day, and where genetically modified crops are often derided as "Frankenfoods." "It is of utmost importance that the future of our profession is not determined solely under the influence of scientists, industrialists and technocrats," the group said in a news release Thursday after meeting in Paris to come up with a plan of attack. The National Institute of Agricultural Research is seeking ways to make vulnerable grapes more resistant to disease, and it plans to replant a batch of genetically modified vines after a five-year pause. "We're not persuaded that the tests will start with the maximum number of precautions that we consider absolutely necessary," said Alain Graillot, the president of the vintners association, which also includes winegrowers from California to Germany. "We want to be certain that there will be no accidental spreading, and that any possible toxicity of the plants is completely ruled out," he told The Associated Press. A small crop of genetically modified grapes was planted in 1996 in eastern France by the champagne manufacturer Moet et Chandon in partnership with the agricultural institute. But consumer pressure forced the company to dig the plants out of the ground in 1999 and limit research to the lab, said Sylvie Colleu, an institute spokeswoman. After all, France is the land that made a hero out of Jose Bove, the mustachioed farmer-turned-activist known for ripping up genetically modified crops and ransacking a half-built McDonald's in 1999. "In France, the consumers of wine are rather traditional, and many are against genetically modified organisms," Colleu said. "And many professionals feel that this could hurt the image of their brands." The dug-up plants were frozen in a laboratory, and the institute is waiting for the green light from Agriculture Minister Herve Gaymard to replant them. Jean Masson, the president of the research center in Colmar where the tests would be conducted, said the vines could be planted as early as August. This time around, the institute has agreed to certain restrictions to ease consumer fears, he said. No wine will be produced from the plants, for example. Winemakers have complained that there is a lack of dialogue between the researchers and the public. Masson, however, said that he had replied to a letter from Earth and Wine of the World that he had received in March 2003, but that he had no response until a fax last week. France's vintners have for years suffered a steady erosion of their livelihoods by margin-squeezing supermarket chains, falling demand at home and the growing popularity of Australian and American wines abroad. A government crackdown on drunken driving has also battered domestic sales. Worried French winemakers are currently waging another battle: trying to loosen restrictions on alcohol advertising. Their message - that people should drink more - has met with resistance from doctors' groups, who say the French already drink enough.